Day One: arriving
The drive from Calais had been surprisingly smooth—just over four hours of rolling countryside, quiet motorways. As we turned off the motorway and onto the final stretch, we were hit by a bit of what I expected counted as the local rush hour traffic. I felt a gentle sense of relief wash over me. We had arrived in Lusigny-sur-Barse, a small village nestled at the edge of Lac d’Orient, our home for the week.
It was late afternoon on Thursday. Our host had opened the gate for the courtyard where we could park and I pulled the car up and we were immediately given a warm welcome. Our Gîte (holiday rental in France) was the a little annex on their home, which was a 1810 barn made in the traditional style with wooden structure. Slightly to my relief she spoke a little English and definitely more than my limited French, her kindness making up for any language barriers. As she showed us around the space, a simple but immaculate retreat with bright windows, rustic furniture, and plenty of room for the kids and I.
The village itself was only a short walk away, and we decided to stretch our legs and explore and get some fresh vegetables. As we wandered down quiet streets, the village seemed like something out of a storybook. The church of Saint-Martin, standing tall in the center of Lusigny, with its gothic spire piercing the evening sky, was the first sign of the village’s deep-rooted history. We found the local shop, modest but well-stocked, where we picked up a few essentials.
Day Two: a loop of the lake by bike.
The next morning, we woke late, managing to sleep though the cockerall. It was the kind of morning that begged for a slow start. Eventually, we rallied ourselves, and I set off with the kids to the village bakery for baguettes and pain au chocolat. The smell of fresh bread filled the air as we stood in a longish queue to get in, this seamed like a good sign that it was popular.
Later, while the kids drew, I rolled out my yoga mat for a quick yoga session, stretching my muscles out after the drive.
In the afternoon, we decided to explore the nearby lake. The gîte had bikes available, well used but perfectly functional. After some minor adjustments, we were ready to head out. The kids were excited, though on arriving at the beach we quickly discovered we’d left behind one crucial thing—our swimming costumes. No matter, we had a mini spade, perfect for sandcastles. The ride to Lac d’Orient was easy and pleasant. The first beach we reached was nearly deserted, save for a few locals. We settled down, the kids happily digging in the sand while relaxed in the shade. Hunting out shade was to become a pattern for our trip, particularly as the forecast for the week was wall to wall sunshine and hot!
But I was eager to explore more, so after a while, we set off to continue our way around the lake, determined to make a full loop around the lake. The path was well-maintained, and though thirty kilometers sounded daunting, the gentle landscape made it manageable. We cycled through quiet forests, past other beaches.
At one point, we veered off the path to visit a bird hide perched on stilts, hoping to catch a glimpse of the wildlife that made its home by the lake. We didn’t see much in the way of birds, but the view from the hide, stretching over the water and the marshes, was breathtaking.
By the time we returned to the gîte, we were tired but content. There was something incredibly satisfying about completing the loop around the lake, having seen so much of the area in a single day and all under our own steam.
Day Three: Rest day
Saturday was quieter, our legs still a little sore from the previous day’s adventure. We spent the morning with a leisurely walk to the bakery, picking up bread and croissants, before heading out for a short family run along the canal. The air already warm with the promise of a hot day ahead. After our run, we returned to the gîte and retreated inside to the cool air for a lazy afternoon of yoga and reading, the perfect way to unwind.
Later, we ventured out to the larger supermarket at the edge of the village, a short walk through quiet roads that gave us a glimpse of a different part of the village.
As we returned to the gîte that evening, after cooking dinner it was time to get busy getting ready for the next day’s trip to Troyes, I couldn’t help but feel that we had already begun to settle into the rhythm of this beautiful corner of France. The days stretched out before us, full of promise.
Day Four: Historic Tour of Troyes
The day started just like most mornings with yoga and then a family walk to the local bakery to pick up fresh bread and croissants. The sun was shining brightly, so we packed our bikes and headed out to the nearby cycle path. A short ride down the road from the gîte brought us to the canal, and just beyond it was the cycle way. To the right, it led to the lakes, but today, we turned left for the twenty kilometres ride to Troyes, almost entirely off-road on flat, smooth tarmac. This location made the gîte perfect for us—plenty of space for yoga and playing, cool and comfortable during the day, with a lovely garden, and incredibly welcoming hosts. The proximity to the cycle way made it even better, giving us easy access to Troyes and the surrounding areas.
Today’s ride was one of the longest the kids have done, but with the route being mostly flat and well-paved, it was ideal for a family cycling adventure. We set off in the bright morning, cycling along the canal as the kids enjoyed pedaling beside the water. Soon, the path opened up into stunning countryside, with fields and forests stretching into the distance. For the last stretch we followed the Seine River towards Troyes, and we stopped by the river for a quick snack, enjoying the peaceful flow of the water.
Arriving in Troyes felt magical. The medieval buildings and cobbled streets were like something out of a storybook. The ride was manageable and fun, and Troyes was full of sights and history. We locked our bikes near Place de la Libération, close to the impressive Saint-Urbain Basilica, and headed to the Tourist Information Office for maps and recommendations, before heading out to explore. The Ruelle des Chats was a hit with the kids, where the overlapping houses almost touched above our heads. We took a peek into some of the hidden gardens on our way to Sainte-Madeleine Church. After finding a spot for our picnic at Place Jean Jaurès, we continued on past Saint-Pantaléon Church to the Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière—a fascinating museum showcasing tools and craftsmanship, which offers a glimpse into Troyes’ industrial past. Our next stop was the Cathedral of Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul, a highlight of the day with its incredible stained-glass windows.
Now it was time to returned to our bikes. On our way back, we encountered some closed roads due to a cycling event, and to the kids’ delight, we even received a few cheers as we pedaled past the crowds. Using Komoot for navigation, we retraced our steps along the cycle way, making good time with a couple of snack breaks before arriving back at the gîte. The entire day was filled with fun, history, and adventure, making it a perfect family trip to Troyes!
Day Five: Historic Tour of Lusigny-sur-Barse
After noticing a few signs on buildings around the village we were staying in; I searched online for a map of the heritage tour. Armed with our map, we wandered through centuries-old streets, learning from the information signs scattered throughout the village.
Église Saint-Martin
Our first stop was the Église Saint-Martin, a striking symbol of the village’s deep-rooted history. This 19th-century church stands as a testament to the local community’s resilience and faith, brought to life by Abbé Laurent, the parish priest from 1860 to 1880. Thanks to his leadership and the generosity of the villagers, the church was restored and partially rebuilt, aligning with a time of religious revival across rural France. Stepping inside, we were struck by the calm, cool interior—a quiet space perfect for reflection. One of the treasures we discovered inside was a 14th-century statue of the Virgin, a reminder of the church’s medieval past. The church is also home to stunning stained-glass windows, which cast beautiful hues across the space, offering a glimpse into the artistry of the time.
The Cemetery and Its Stories
Next, we wandered to the village cemetery, which revealed even more layers of local history. Among the graves of local nobles, we found the resting places of RAF crew members and other war graves—solemn reminders of the village’s connections to broader European history. The cemetery, like so much of the village, was steeped in stories.
Croissants at the Boulangerie
We couldn’t resist stopping by our favorite boulangerie for fresh croissants. The boulangerie sits next to a small park and green space. Across the way, we noticed a memorial commemorating the Second World War, yet another reminder of Lusigny-sur-Barse’s rich historical tapestry.
The 1814 French Campaign
As we strolled towards the village green, we encountered an information board telling the story of Napoleon’s 1814 campaign. Lusigny-sur-Barse had been occupied by several armies, including Austrian, Prussian, and Russian forces, during Napoleon’s efforts to defend France. The village even hosted armistice talks between Napoleon’s representatives and the Allies, though these talks ultimately failed. Standing there, it was hard to imagine that this peaceful village had once been at the center of such military tension.
The Barn: A Historic Relocation
Next on our route was The Barn, a beautifully reconstructed 19th-century structure originally built in Montreuil-sur-Barse. The barn, transferred to Lusigny in 2001, now serves as a multifunctional reception area. It was fascinating to see the craftsmanship and effort involved in preserving its historic Champagne-style architecture.
Villa Gabrielle: A Community’s Heart
Continuing our walk, we came across Villa Gabrielle, a key site in the village’s social history. Once a hub for civic and charitable activities, the villa played a vital role in distributing food to the poor and addressing local concerns.
A Stroll by the Pond: The Alley of the Grivoise
Before the route took us down the Alley of the Grivoise, we paused to admire a tranquil community pond adorned with beautiful lily pads. The alley itself holds historical significance, with the remains of a ditch that once helped manage water runoff from the village’s “burned house district,” channeling water toward the Barse River.
Gaston Bachelard’s Sculpture
One of the more unusual stops on our walk was a sculpture dedicated to Gaston Bachelard, a philosopher from the region renowned for his poetic and scientific explorations of the four classical elements: earth, air, fire, and water. This particular sculpture, created by Klaus Rinke in 1986, focuses on water, a recurring theme in Bachelard’s work. Situated near an old mill by the Barse River, the sculpture beautifully symbolises the village’s connection to nature and philosophy.
The Canal de la Divoise: A Walk Along the Water
We concluded our tour with a serene walk along the Canal de la Divoise, which channels water from Lac d’Orient and follows the natural path of the Barse River. Built as part of a 20th-century project to manage water flow in the region, the canal offers a peaceful, quiet path to enjoy. There’s something special about being near water—it brings a sense of calm and connection to the landscape.
Day Six: Local Fauna, Flora, and Swimming
Our day began with the peaceful rhythm that had become my holiday routine. Rising early, before the children stirred, I started the morning with a glass of water and then moved to my usual spot in the dining room, which had become my yoga studio. With the cool morning air flowing through the room, I moved through my poses, feeling a deep sense of calm settle over me. Afterward, I sat on the patio with a cup of lemon and ginger tea and a bowl of muesli with yogurt, savoring the tranquility before the day’s hustle began.
When the children woke, it was time for showers and our customary walk to the local boulangerie. The familiar smell of fresh pastries and bread greeted us as we entered, and with our warm treats in hand, we set off for the adventure of the day: a nature walk along the canal.
The circuit with its information boards took us on a loop around both sides of the canal, starting at Gaston Bachelard’s monumental sculpture near the weir. It was the perfect place to begin, with the calming sound of water cascading over the structure, setting the tone for our peaceful walk.
The information boards scattered around this section of the canal were part of a local educational initiative called the “Information Circuit on Local Fauna and Flora,” a project conducted by students from Lusigny-sur-Barse. The initiative aimed to raise environmental awareness, and we found it both educational and enjoyable. The kids loved learning about:
- The grey heron
- The damselfly
- Edible plants
- Fish in the canal
- The house martin
- The coypu
- The mute swan
The afternoon plan was to hop back on our bikes and visit the second lake along the cycle path. We ventured towards Lac du Temple, which had a distinctly different atmosphere compared to Lac d’Orient. Cycling along the raised path, with semi-submerged trees and sweeping views across the water, felt like a real treat. Near Brevonnes, we decided to turn around and find some shade for a second lunch!
while retracing our route back to the Gîte, we headed to the beach for a swim. This time, I stayed with the bags while the kids swam close by—thankfully, I remembered to bring the swimming costumes this time!
Day Seven: Rest and Reflection
Our last full day was all about relaxation. After my morning yoga and breakfast, we spent the day lounging around the cottage. The kids busied themselves with drawing and playing, while I did a bit of cleaning and packing. As the afternoon heat began to subside, we took the opportunity for a final bike ride to the nearest beach.
This time, my daughter and I took a dip in the water, which felt surprisingly warmer than our local swimming pool. It was a peaceful, reflective end to a week filled with activity and adventure.
Day Eight: Homeward Bound
As the saying goes, all good things must come to an end. We started our last morning with a visit to the boulangerie for breakfast and enjoyed one final walk along the canal. After that, it was time to pack the car, finish up the last bit of cleaning, and say our goodbyes to our wonderful hosts. They even introduced us to their rescued goose, a fittingly quirky end to our stay.
The drive back to Le Shuttle was smooth and easy, giving me time to reflect on what an amazing week it had been. We had started this trip with the hope of finding a quiet French village with plenty of activities, a great boulangerie, and space for the kids to play—and for me to enjoy my morning yoga and get back into a good morning routine. This trip had exceeded all of our expectations.
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