A Wander Between Pubs in the Forest of Dean

For me nothing quite says “post-exam freedom” like a low-key wander through the Forest of Dean with a good friend and plenty of countryside pubs to discover. Fresh off my A-levels, I hitched a ride with a group from school who were heading to the forest for a Duke of Edinburgh expedition. Hedley and I took the chance to tag along and explore a region that, until then, had been little more than a name on a map. With the promise of centuries-old oak trees, winding footpaths, and the ever-alluring River Wye, we set off on a relaxed three-day ramble through a landscape brimming with history and, of course, a sprinkling of pubs.

Monday, June 23: Speech House to Broom Hill

We were dropped off at the Speech House Hotel (once a 17th-century hunting lodge for King Charles II) around 3 p.m., then split into two mini-groups: Hedley and me, and Dino, Pete, and Baz. Hedley and my plan was to wander in a roughly northwesterly direction toward Broom Hill campsite, avoiding roads whenever possible, and meet up again that evening with the others at the campsite.


We chalked up about 9 miles in just over three hours, meandering through forest trails and quiet footpaths that looped around the edges of broadleaf woodland. The day was warm and overcast, making for pleasant walking conditions.


We arrived at Broom Hill late afternoon, pitched our tents, and got dinner on the go, soup followed by risotto. Just as we were cleaning up, the other group showed up to start their own cooking. We spent the evening exploring the campsite’s surroundings, then ambled over to a local pub for a quick pint before calling it a day.

There’s something oddly satisfying about that time after the A-level exams. No deadlines, no revision, just an open schedule and the whole summer to look forward to before the beginning of the next chapter. Bliss.

Tuesday, June 24: Forest Trails to Bicknor YHA

Morning brought the usual campsite ritual, showers, breakfast (Ready Brek in my case), followed by a 9:15 a.m. start. The day began cloudy, warm, and humid, perfect for a good stretch of walking. Our route took us northwest toward a bend in the River Wye, with a quick detour to check out a small cave en route.

At Staunton Church (10:00 a.m.) We regrouped with Chris Fletcher Campbell (CFC), one of our teachers, at St. James’ Church in Staunton. Its peaceful setting and centuries-old stonework offered a calming pause, quite different from the bustle of the campsite.

Our path continued past Reddings Lodge, then alongside the riverbank into Symonds Yat, the famed riverside village that straddles the border of England and Wales. We couldn’t resist climbing up to Symonds Yat Rock, the iconic viewpoint perched above an ancient Iron Age hillfort. The panorama of the Wye Valley stretching before us was breathtaking: dense woodland, meandering river, and rolling hills far into the distance.

By the time we descended on the other side of Symonds Yat and meandered along the water’s edge, we’d clocked about 13 miles. We arrived at Bicknor YHA around mid-afternoon, unpacked our gear, pitched our tents and let ourselves sink into that delicious post-hike tiredness. Dinner was tuna pasta, a staple that always tastes better when earned by a solid day’s walk.

That evening, we strolled to the nearest pub only to find it closed. Undeterred, a local directed us to an alternative “a bit of a walk away.” After a brisk trek, we found ourselves in a beer garden full of friendly animals (and equally friendly people). A couple of chilled pints later, we were trekking back to the campsite, the day’s mileage catching up to us in the form of heavy eyelids.

Wednesday, June 25: Rainy Mornings & Homeward Bound

We woke to the patter of rain on tent fabric, not unwelcome, really, given how muggy it had been. Breakfast came together quickly (Ready Brek again for me), and we packed our gear, soggy but in good spirits.

Our walk was a shorter one this morning: down to the river, up a hillside, and then looping back to the designated pick-up point. There, we reunited with the other group, turning up from a different direction just in time to see the school minibus appear. In true Forest-of-Dean fashion, we were damp, cheerful, and eager to swap stories of each group’s escapades.

Within minutes, we were bundled onto the bus, gear stowed, leaving behind the thick woodland and winding lanes for the more familiar realm of Bloxham School. Another micro-adventure complete.

Next Stop: The Cairngorms

Not long after, the next adventure called: five days hiking through the Cairngorms, this time under the watchful eye of a blocking high. A group of us hitched a lift with another Duke of Edinburgh group, though this time from a different school, while still being assessed by our own teachers. A new landscape and a whole different challenge but the same love for open and wild spaces.

Published by Richard Cole

I have spent most of the last decade out on adventures with my kids, ranging from introducing them to wild camping and cycle camping to a 14 day trek along Langtang and Helembu treks as part of a longer trip to Nepal as a family. Along with a number of personal trips. My blog covers some of the highlights

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