A Morning Among the Wild at Creag Choinnich
The best moments in nature often belong to those who wake early. As I left the hostel to the sound of an enthusiastic dawn chorus, I stepped into the fresh morning air. A robin, perched at the top of a bare tree, sang its heart out. The village of Braemar was still asleep, but the forest was already alive.
Walking towards the Creag Choinnich Nature Trail, I was reminded why this is my favourite time of day. The world felt untouched, as if, for a brief moment, it was just me and the wildlife. Before I even reached the entrance, a red squirrel darted past, its bushy tail bouncing as it skillfully navigated the branches. A startled rabbit hesitated before making a dash for its burrow. These small encounters reinforced the feeling that I was stepping into a secret world, one that would soon disappear when the first dog walkers arrived.
Following the meandering trail through ancient pinewoods and open moorland, I passed educational signs about the landscape and its inhabitants. One encouraged me to look out for wildflowers, though I knew it would be a few months before heather and orchids painted the woodland floor with colour.
Then, movement. A large bird of prey launched from a low perch, weaving effortlessly through the trees before vanishing into the canopy. Its size, broad wings, and pale underside made me fairly certain it was a goshawk. A thrilling sight, especially in dense woodland where these raptors thrive, masters of stealth and agility.
The Creag Choinnich Nature Trail was everything I had hoped for: wild, immersive, and rich with life. Though the route wasn’t always obvious, that only added to the adventure. With no one else around, I took my time, moving quietly, listening to the forest, and watching for more wildlife.
As I explored the reserve, I came across a well-maintained permanent orienteering course. A sign read:
“There is a permanent orienteering course in this forest. You are now at the start point. Creag Choinnich has a variety of terrain, from the intricate path network near the start to the detailed slopes at the far end, offering a challenge for all skill levels.”
Maps of the different courses were available for download, and there was also a mobile phone orienteering (MOBO) system, allowing participants to use QR codes at checkpoints.
By the time I returned to the village, I had already covered 5km. Most people were just pouring their first coffee, but my morning had already been full of encounters. Sitting down to breakfast, I felt content knowing that I had shared the early hours with red squirrels, birds of prey, and the quiet beauty of Creag Choinnich before the world caught up.
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Braemar on Foot: A Highland Escape
Unlike Aviemore and other settlements on the opposite side of the Cairngorms, Braemar isn’t on a train line. While this makes it slightly more challenging to reach by public transport, it’s far from impossible. Most of the guests at the Hostelling Scotland hostel had arrived by car, but a few had cycled from nearby train stations, and some were stopping off while hiking long-distance trails. One traveller I met was walking coast to coast across Scotland, camping and staying in bothies along the way.
For those staying in Braemar without a car, there’s still plenty to explore:
Exploring the Ruins of Kindrochit Castle
Wandering into the heart of the village, I found myself at the ruins of Kindrochit Castle, perched on the banks of Clunie Water. Built in the 14th century by Robert II, this fortress once served as a grand royal hunting lodge, guarding the Deeside routes. Now, its crumbling walls and moss-covered stones whisper of sieges, feasts, and a time when kings rode out from Braemar to hunt in the vast Highland wilderness.
It was easy to linger here, imagining the echoes of medieval life: the clang of armour, the rush of the river, and the distant calls of stags in the glens.
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Walking Trails from Braemar
Rather than focusing on the Munros that flank Braemar, which are well-documented elsewhere, I explored trails accessible directly from the village.
Creag Choinnich (Red Route)
• A short but steep ascent offering panoramic views of Braemar and the surrounding mountains.
• Perfect for an early morning walk before the crowds arrive.
Lion’s Face and The Cromlins (Yellow Route)
• A scenic loop through ancient pine forests and open moorland, ideal for wildlife spotting.
River Dee Walk (Brown Route)
• A peaceful riverside path following the majestic River Dee, known for otters, salmon, and stunning reflections on calm days.
Queen’s Drive (Green Route)
• A historic route once favoured by Queen Victoria, with rolling hills and wide-open landscapes.
Morrone Birkwood (Blue Route)
• A longer hike into the Morrone Birkwood Nature Reserve, where red deer roam and the Cairngorm peaks come into view.
Morrone (Grey Route)
• A climb to the summit of Morrone (859m), rewarding walkers with sweeping views over the Cairngorms and Dee Valley. The trail starts in woodland before emerging onto vast moorland, with Lochnagar, Beinn a’ Bhùird, and Ben Avon visible in the distance.
Most trails are well-marked but still feel wild enough to offer a true Highland adventure.
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The Fife Arms: Art in the Highlands
Though I was staying at the hostel, I couldn’t resist stepping inside the Fife Arms, Braemar’s most famous hotel. Once a Victorian coaching inn, it has been transformed under the ownership of Iwan and Manuela Wirth, co-founders of the renowned Hauser & Wirth gallery.
Inside, the hotel was a feast for the senses, walls adorned with Picasso sketches, neon art installations, and antique taxidermy, all woven into a rich tapestry of Scottish heritage.
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The Bothy Café & Riverside Retreats
For me, no morning in Braemar is complete without a stop at The Bothy Café. A hot drink and a jacket potato felt well-earned after a morning of exploring. The café buzzed with locals, hikers, and cyclists, swapping stories before heading into the hills.
Recharged, I took a final stroll along the River Dee, its waters cutting through the landscape like a silver thread. Then, after some yoga at the hostel, I set off for a run up Creag Choinnich before dinner.
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A Place That Calls You Back
Braemar is the kind of place that stays with you. A place where ruins and rivers meet, where art and history blend, and where nature is always just beyond the village edge.
As I headed south the next morning, I reflected on past trips here. Each one marking a different moment in my life. My 1997 school trip, marking my transition to university. Meeting my now ex-wife at the Purple Haze disco at the Fife Arms before its grand renovation. The time I crossed paths with King Charles while hiking with my son and the baby bump that would become my daughter. That trip had marked the start of a decade of adventure travel with my children.
I couldn’t help but wonder what change this visit might herald. Whatever it was, I knew one thing for sure, this wouldn’t be my last trip.
Braemar, like the morning light on the mountains, is something you always want to return to.