Immersed in the allure of Cornwall’s breathtaking coastline, we decided to pick up on last years adventure fast packing trip bivvying for three nights between Penzance and Falmouth with a more relaxed nine day trip along the South West Coast Path. This time determined to explore the region’s beauty from Padstow to Penzance. Intrigued by the prospect of diverse experiences, we decided to mix our accommodations, opting for bivvying under the stars, cozy stays at hostels near stunning beaches, charming Airbnb homes for a connection with locals, and occasional indulgences in hotels. This varied approach allowed us to fully immerse ourselves in Cornwall’s coastal charm, while also providing opportunities for early morning swims in the sparkling sea, morning yoga and to enjoy meeting locals and other visitors alike.
Our journey was not only about the landscapes but also the remarkable individuals we encountered along the way. One such unforgettable encounter was with the nettle granny, a captivating artist whose ingenious artwork left an indelible impression. Among her masterpieces, a wedding dress made entirely from recycled tea bags stood out, showcasing her creativity and dedication to sustainable artistry.
In addition to our hiking adventures, we seized the chance to explore cafes to refuel and the local shops hunting for supplies to keep us going, delving into the unique offerings of each coastal town we encountered. Our total trek covered approximately 150 miles, as we savoured every step along the mesmerising South West Coast Path. To get down to Cornwall we took advantage of the direct train service connecting Penzance to a number of places across the country. So armed with our two-travel-together rail card, train tickets, well-packed 45-liter rucksacks, and a bag filled with delicious traveling snacks, we embarked on this journey, brimming with anticipation and excitement.
Friday and Saturday: The Journey Begins: From Bristol to Padstow and Coastal Bliss to YHA hostel at Treyarnon Bay.
As we embarked on our adventure along the South West Coast Path, the journey to the coast itself was filled with a twist. After a busy yet uneventful train ride, we spent a night in Bristol, savouring salads purchased from Sainsbury’s and relishing the waterfront ambiance. It would have felt incomplete to be in the southwest without indulging in a cider, especially with the hotel bar offering a complimentary drink. When the morning arrived, and we prepared ourselves for the day ahead with refreshing showers, a cup of tea, and hearty bowls of porridge. Packed and ready, we made our way to the station, excited to embark on our coastal adventure.
However, a platform change from 12 to 15 added a touch of unexpected exercise to our journey as we picked up our bags and headed over. With anticipation building, we watched the previous train idly sitting on platform 15 before an announcement redirected us back to platform 12. Which on our arrival back at platform 12 they announced it was due to depart from platform 15. It seemed as if they were playing a game of musical chairs. Remaining patient, we stuck to waiting on platform 12, when our train arrived and we were off to Bodman Parkway.
Upon reaching Bodman Parkway, we switched from train to bus, I settling in for a snooze during the journey. As we arrived in Padstow, the bustling atmosphere immediately struck us. Originally we had planned on having some lunch here before heading on, although with the busy crowds, we decided to press on, bypassing the crowded cafes. It turned out to be a wise decision as we stumbled upon the invitingly named café, “Rest a While Tea Gardren,” after a breathtaking stretch of coastline. Here we enjoyed a break and relished some delicious leak and potato soup, surrounded by the tranquility of a local homeowner’s back garden come cafe. Energized and grateful, we continued our journey along the coast, revealing in the beauty of the turquoise seas, rugged headlands, and the graceful presence of seabirds.
Next on our route was the Newtrain Bay Tidal Pool near Trevone which was used in filming the Malory towers BBC to series and it was great to see people swimming there, although sadly for us with lots of miles still left to do that day and a late start, we pressed on without a swim.
As we made out way forwards the sight of vibrant flowers adorning the rock walls added a touch of natural elegance to our surroundings.
As we rounded a headland, our hostel finally came into view—a haven nestled close to the beach. Its proximity to the shoreline and the warm hospitality of its friendly staff made it an ideal resting place. Taking advantage of our self-sufficiency, we cooked our own dinner using provisions we had carried in. After a leisurely stroll to soak up the enchanting atmosphere, we settled in for an early night, rejuvenating ourselves for the next day’s adventures.
Sunday: Coastal Bliss and Unexpected Adventures: A Memorable Day from Treyarnon Bay to Porth
We found ourselves on a day that offered a bit of respite and relaxation. With the intention of getting accustomed to early starts for future bivvying experiences, we woke up bright and early, eager to greet the day with a dip in the sea. Although the water initially felt cold, we quickly acclimated to its refreshing embrace, settling in the surf as the waves rolled in, savouring the tranquility of the beach all to ourselves, except for a morning runner heading out before her children woke up in the hostel. After our beach escapade, we took a short walk back to the hostel, ready to cleanse ourselves with a refreshing shower.
Following our invigorating morning swim, we indulged in a hearty breakfast and a rejuvenating yoga session to help offset the tightness in our legs we would likely experience from all the hiking. Knowing the weather forecast was to improve we sat out the rain showers relaxing for a little longer in the morning with the breathtaking view of the sea from the hostel, coupled with sips of tea, created a moment of pure bliss. With our spirits lifted, we packed up and prepared to continue our journey along the coast. Overnight rain had left behind patches of light rain, leaving fellow hostel dwellers contemplating their plans for the day as we left.
As we resumed our coastal hike, we encountered a landscape adorned with captivating headlands and sandy bays. Though the cloud cover slightly diminished the magical quality of the water’s colour from the previous day. The awe-inspiring rock formations along the coastline compensated for it, providing a captivating visual feast. A slight diversion from the path led us to a national trust cafe, which proved to be one of the finest we had encountered on our journey. After indulging in a satisfying meal of jacket potato and soup, we resumed our trail, making our way towards Mawgan Port.
Our detour to Mawgan Port served a dual purpose: to visit a renowned vegan shop and procure some glue as a precautionary measure for potential shoe repairs. A small slit in one of our shoes had caught our attention, and we kept a watchful eye on it, hoping it wouldn’t worsen during our trek.
As the day neared its end, the coastal scenery was veiled by a mesmerising sea mist, adding an ethereal touch to our surroundings. We arrived at Porth, where we settled into the charming Manor House for a delightful stay. With a brief venture to the outskirts of Newquay for a meal at PizzaExpress and a quick trip to the supermarket for snacks, we concluded the day with a relaxing evening. Engrossed in an episode of the beloved show “Big Bang Theory” on my iPhone, we soon retired to bed. However, our peaceful slumber was interrupted by a power cut that triggered the alarm system overnight, providing an unexpected moment of excitement amidst the tranquility of our stay.
Monday: Coastal Wonders and Unexpected Encounters: From Porth to St Agnes Head
We kicked off with a yoga session, before fueling ourselves with a hearty bowl of porridge, before preparing for the day’s adventure, which was to beginning with a scenic five kilometer walk through Newquay. Our destination was the charming Fistray Beach, where we indulged in a delightful second breakfast at a cozy café, basking in the seaside ambiance.
Next it was time to cross the Penpol tidal bridge, we ventured further along the coast, immersing ourselves in the captivating scenery. Seeking refuge from the increasing heat under a convenient sunshade, we make the most of another café stop in Holywell, taking the approach stop and eat when we could as there were some quite long sections on this route with no facilities. There, we relished another satisfying jacket potato. Continuing our journey, we passed by an old deserted army base, its abandoned appearance adding an air of mystery and intrigue to the landscape.
The path led us onward to Perran Beach, where due to the high tide we strolled along the dunes, savouring the breathtaking coastal views. Arriving at the settlement after filled our water bottles, we noticed a woman struggling to get her dog to drink from a bottle filling station; which was not the reassurance we wanted about how clean the water would be from the drinking fountain; so to ensure the water’s purity, we added water purification tablets to our own bottles.
Along the way, we encountered a charming YHA hostel nestled on the hillside. Though closed to visitors, it offered another opportunity to refill our water bottles at a convenient station. Passing by a commercial airfield, we observed motorbikers engaged in their training sessions and encountered fellow hikers and wild campers near the old World War II bomb shelters. These were amongst a number of fellow hikers doing the trail and we stopped to sharing tales of our adventures so far.
Eager to maximize our time in the picturesque town of St Ives, we made the decision to push on and attempt two long days of hiking, followed by a well-deserved half-day break. Our determination carried us past St Agnes, heading towards the captivating St Agnes Head. However, finding a suitable bivvying spot proved challenging as we sought an area free from prickly ground. Nonetheless, we persevered and eventually secured a spot to rest for the night and watched the beautiful sunset as we settled down for the night just as it was getting dark.
Tuesday: Coastal Splendor and Tranquil Retreats: From St Agnes Head to Hayle:
With the sea mist rolling in overnight we woke up at 5 am, to a lot of condensation in our bivvys, with the aim of being packed up before the morning dog walkers arrived.
Our first stop was the deserted National Trust picnic benches and toilets at Chapel Porth, where we took a moment to appreciate the serene surroundings, eat our breakfast before continuing our trek.
Passing through Porthtowan just pausing to use their public toilet, we found most establishments closed at that early hour. Nevertheless, the quietude of the town in the early morning cast a peaceful spell as we pressed on. Our path led us along the side of another old airfield, still utilized by the Ministry of Defense. The presence of abandoned mines added a sense of history and intrigue to this stretch of our journey, making it feel like an adventure of a bygone era. After what felt like a long but rewarding hike, we arrived at our lunchtime destination—the Hub in Portreath. This well-deserved break allowed us to refuel and recharge.
Continuing our journey, we ventured along the cliff top paths, as we made our way towards Godrevy Point. Here, we were treated to the tranquility of a quiet seal colony and the graceful presence of a lighthouse.
Our path then led us towards the town of Hayle, where we had arranged a last minute Airbnb for the night. As we arrived, we took the opportunity to explore the enchanting dunes and the charming town itself. The excitement of a gluten free sandwich and iced spiced buns from Mark and Spencer’s made for a treat while in Hayle. The evening was restful, allowing us to unwind and rejuvenate.
Wednesday: Seaside Serenity and Historic Charm: From Hayle to St Ives
Rising early, we kicked off the morning with an invigorating swim, followed by a satisfying breakfast. Energised and ready for the day’s adventures, we packed up our belongings and set out, making a quick stop at ASDA on route, to gather supplies for the upcoming days. Our path led us past the enchanting sight of birds flocking around the muddy marshes, we passed by charming homes nestled along the railway line, adding a touch of residential warmth to the coastal landscape. Soon, we found ourselves meandering through the dunes, drawing closer to the proximity of a nearby golf course. The ever-changing scenery provided a refreshing backdrop to our walk, invigorating our senses with each step.
Arriving at our much-anticipated destination, the idyllic town of St Ives, we first dropped off our bags at the hotel, eager to fully immerse ourselves in the towns captivating allure. Venturing out to satisfy our appetites, we indulged in a delectable meal. Immersed in its historic charm, we delved into the town’s intriguing history, gaining insights into its cultural heritage. Our exploration led us to St Ia’s Well, a significant landmark that provided a glimpse into the town’s storied past.
Thursday: Coastal Marvels and Village Charms: St Ives and Zennor
Before breakfast we embarked on a morning wander through the picturesque town of St Ives. Energised and ready to explore, we set off on a captivating journey tracing the rugged coastline that unfolded before us. Our guidebook has warned us even though this was a short section it was one of the more difficult, although unreality this was confided to a short section of scrambling over boulders.
The tranquility of the surroundings, coupled with the sparse presence of fellow hikers, added an air of exclusivity to our experience. It was a delightful surprise to encounter familiar faces along the way, including the fellow wild campers we had met during our earlier days of trekking. These chance encounters created a sense of camaraderie, reminding us of the shared joy and adventure of the South West Coast Path.
With the arrival of rain showers, off the outskirts of Zennor we managed to make it to the pub where we were staying for the night before the downpour intensified. On arriving we sought refuge at a charming pub, where we had a hearty lunch. The afternoon provided a welcome respite, allowing us to indulge in eating while contemplating our next leg of our journey. In the village of Zennor, one particular highlight awaited us in the village’s church—a captivating mermaid sculpture carved on the side of a bench. With a lovely tale about how a local boy went to join her at sea. Later I found out that Zennor also has a connection to some of the children’s books written by author Michael Morpurgo.
As the day drew to a close, we reflected on the beauty and serenity of the coastal marvels we had encountered, as well as the village charms of Zennor.
Friday: Exploring Coastal Treasures: From Zennor to St Just
The day had what was becoming a fairly typical start for us with invigorating morning yoga and refreshing hot showers, preparing us for the adventures that awaited. In the hotel we gathered around a communal table for breakfast, where serendipity introduced us to a fascinating family also walking part of the trail. Engaging conversations flowed as we shared the company of a potter and two glaciologists, their stories and expertise adding depth to our breakfast experience.
After bidding farewell to our hotel, we returned to the captivating coastline, eagerly searching for any sign of the elusive mermaid in the ocean. Continuing our journey along a breathtaking section of the coast path, we took a break along the way to appreciate the commanding view of Commandos Ridge at Porthmonina Cove, where the Royal Marine Commandos trained during the Second World War. The rugged cliffs and panoramic vistas served as a reminder of nature’s grandeur.
Our route then led us to the awe-inspiring sprawling mining complexes of Geevor Tin Mine and Levant Mine. Although time constraints prevented us from fully exploring these historic sites, we paused to read a few information boards, appreciating the significance and legacy of Cornwall’s mining heritage. Continuing on, our eyes were drawn to the impressive chimney perched atop a hill at Cape Cornwall. The coast path guided us over the crest of the hill, offering sweeping views as we descended towards the coast watch station. As we marveled at the coastal beauty, we couldn’t help but notice the unique naming of our destination, the YHA Lands End hostel, despite its being located in St Just, a considerable distance from the actual Land’s End.
Arriving at the hostel a mere eight minutes before its opening, we joined fellow travellers in the garden, before realising our preference for the shade. After checking in, we ventured into the town to gather supplies for dinner and breakfast, ensuring we had everything needed for a satisfying meal. Returning to the hostel’s kitchen, we enjoyed the luxury of having the space to ourselves as we prepared our evening meal. The rest of the night was spent in the relaxing ambiance of the lounge, unwinding and a well-deserved rest.
Saturday: Ancient Cairns and Coastal Wonders: A Journey from St Just to Porthgwarra
The night before we had realised that we had missed the Ballowall Barrow Chambered Cairn, prompting us to backtrack before breakfast. Our curiosity led us to the site of this large, altered chambered cairn, once buried under minewaste. Standing before this ancient monument, we marveled at its historical significance, appreciating the traces of Cornwall’s rich heritage back through the centuries.
Leaving the ancient cairn behind, we returned into the lush Cot Valley. This valley which was the home to the Lands End YHA hostel providing a refreshing contrast to the rugged Atlantic coast. This verdant haven hinted at an abundance of life within its folds as well as offering glimpses of the area’s industrial past now reclaimed by nature.
Continuing along our path, we found ourselves enthralled by the beauty of Whitesand Bay and Sennen Cove. As we strolled along the shore, we couldn’t resist pausing at a delightful café, indulging in a large halloumi salad that satisfied our appetites. We braced ourselves for the next part of our journey, knowing that the commercialisation of Land’s End awaited us. However, to our surprise, the area appeared less crowded than expected, perhaps due to the mixed weather forecast or the fact it was the day of the corination. Nevertheless, we soon left the hustle and bustle behind, forging ahead towards Gwennap Head.
Arriving at Gwennap Head, our eyes were immediately drawn to a picturesque bivvy spot nestled on Hella Point, discreetly hidden from the main path. Recognising the opportunity for a peaceful and secluded evening, we decided to cut our day slightly short and settle into this idyllic spot. Before making ourselves at home, we descended to Porthgwarra, taking advantage of the amenities and refilling our water supplies. Eager to learn more about the local wildlife, we visited the coast watch visitor room, immersing ourselves in educational displays and fascinating insights. Satisfied with our newfound knowledge, we retreated to our chosen spot, savouring sandwiches and listening to podcasts while soaking in the views of the sea. As darkness enveloped the coastline, we unpacked our bivvys, preparing for a tranquil and dry evening, serenaded by the rhythmic sound of waves below us.
Sunday: Final Steps and Coastal Splendors: From Porthgwarra to Penzance
As the end of our South West Coast Path adventure drew near, we embraced the final day with eagerness and a touch of melancholy. Rising early at 5:30 a.m., we embarked on our last day of walking, knowing that the journey ahead would be filled with both beauty and a hint of disappointment that the adventure was coming to an end. After a quick comfort break at Porthgwarra, we set our sights on the renowned Mince Theatre, but as it appeared closed to non-theatre-going visitors so we pressed on, determined to make the most of our remaining time on this remarkable coastal trail.
On our way to Lamorna Cove we relishing in the opportunity to have the trails mostly to ourselves, save for a few fellow campers heading in the opposite direction. This section of the path did not disappoint, unveiling breathtaking cliff-top paths and meandering through tranquil woodlands. As we arrived at Lamorna Cove, we paused for a comforting hot drink, replenishing our energy and soaking in the tranquil atmosphere.
The final stretch of footpaths, however, presented a new challenge as the paths became increasingly crowded with hikers going in the opposite direction. Narrow passages made passing a little tricky, occasionally surprising fellow walkers with the demanding nature of certain sections. Then passing through the picturesque Mousehole and its lovely little harbour we continued towards Penzance, our search for a suitable cafe for a satisfying meal proved fruitless and we were soon at our final destination at Jubilee Pools, where our route converged with the start of our path from the previous year. With the day drawing to a close, we indulged in an early dinner before taking a leisurely stroll through the parks, making necessary preparations for our train journey home the following day.
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