Falmouth to Treworthal – A Journey Begins
Saturday, May 4th, marked the beginning of the next section of our exploration of a bit more of the south west coast path. An early morning start with the alarm jolting me awake at 4:30 a.m. I made it to the 5:30 train from Bristol, a quiet ride initially, with only a few other walkers sharing the journey. They all disembarked at Exeter, piquing my curiosity about what trails might await there someday. We settled back into the calm until the peace was disrupted by the lively arrival of a hockey team just after Plymouth, filling the train with energy and banter.
The transfer at Truro revealed a delightful coincidence: the railway had first connected Cornwall on this exact date—May 4th. It felt fitting to honour that legacy as we continued further into Cornwall’s depths by train.
Upon reaching Falmouth, We took a moment to pop into the museum, where I picked up a few postcards to send back home. Then, it was off to the first of two ferries, shared with a fellow hiker from Germany who had been wild camping along the coast. We enjoyed the views from the water as we crossed to Place, a quiet settlement anchored by a stately manor house and the charming, secluded church of St. Anthony. The headland here was almost absurdly picturesque, with rolling hills and wildflowers.
At St. Anthony Head, we took a moment to rest by the WWII-era Millard Battery, before heading on to admired the 19th-century lighthouse standing guard over the rugged coast. At this point the coastline was alive with fellow hikers—mostly day walkers. Pausing by the cliffs, I watched seals play in the water below.
By the time we reached Portscatho, it was late afternoon. We stopped for a hearty meal, a fitting reward after the afternoon’s trek. Then it was time to continue along the coastline, passing one of many coast watch stations and eventually leading us onto a secluded beach by an old deserted hotel at Porthcurnick. From here we found our way inland to our Airbnb, tucked away in a serene garden. In the golden light of the setting sun, we enjoyed hot drinks and snacks sat in the garden, relishing the quiet after the day’s adventure. The world felt a little wider, a little more vivid, as the first day of the journey closed with a peaceful evening in this hidden retreat.
Treworthal to Mevagissey – A Tapestry of Colour and History
Sunday dawned and after some breakfast we set off from Treworthal, retracing our steps past the abandoned hotel and back to the coast, where the path was enveloped in a vibrant sea of wildflowers. Red campion, bluebells, primroses, giant daisies, cowslip, buttercups, and dog violets mingled with the occasional splash of red ochre, creating a living tapestry.
The coast led us to Nare Head, a place of fascinating contrasts. Two bunkers lay hidden here, remnants of different eras, each with its own story to tell. One was part of a WWII decoy site—a ‘QF/QL/SF Starfish site’—a carefully crafted illusion meant to mislead enemy aircraft by mimicking the lights of nearby towns. It was a clever ploy in a time of high stakes, designed to protect the area from bombings.
The second bunker had a graver purpose. Built in 1962 during the Cold War, this bunker served as an atomic early-warning station, a stark reminder of the threat of nuclear attack. It was intended to house three officers from the Royal Observer Corps for up to three weeks after an attack, allowing them to monitor radioactive fallout from their underground shelter. Restored by the local ROC Association, it now holds open days during the summer and have to say I would have loved to have a look inside.
With clouds gathering, we donned our waterproof jackets—a rarity so far on this trip. But the rain couldn’t dampen our spirits, as the route continued to unveil stunning coastline, charming villages, and secluded coves. Along the way, we paused at Caerhays Castle—a grand country house overlooking the sea—where we grabbed a quick snack, enjoying chips by the beach.
Our next stop was Gorran Haven, where the Mermaid Café offered a refreshing smoothie that revitalised us for the final stretch.
As evening approached, we arrived in Mevagissey, a historic fishing port with narrow, winding streets lined by traditional cottages. The town’s character was magnetic, making it a perfect place to unwind for the night. Seafood options abounded, tempting anyone with a taste for fresh, local fare.
On an evening stroll, we stumbled upon a surprise: classic mini cars lined the streets, part of the Cornish Mini Club’s Riviera Run. It was a joyful sight, the vintage cars contrasting delightfully with the ancient stone buildings. The next day, we’d pass the event centre and see these colourful little cars weaving through the Cornish landscape.
Mevagissey to the Eden Project – Mud, Mountains, and a Touch of Yoga
Monday started with a familiar ritual: a morning yoga session. The stretch and flow became my way to prepare for the day’s journey, easing sore muscles and grounding myself before taking on Cornwall’s endless hills and, as it turned out, a good dose of mud.
The South West Coast Path through this part of Cornwall is known for its relentless climbs, and today was no exception. The trail led us up and down, with each ascent a reminder of Cornwall’s rugged beauty and each descent a plunge back into mud-soaked trails. Despite the challenge, it was invigorating, a test of resilience that rewarded us with stunning vistas.
We passed through the Cornwall Wildlife Trust’s Ropehaven Cliffs Nature Reserve. A little further along the coast we took a break and while I eat some chips, Irina was able to have a dip into the cool waters at Porthpean Beach Shak.
The route then took us to Charlestown, a beautifully preserved Georgian port near St. Austell, where the old-world harbour had served as a filming location for the series Poldark. Walking through Charlestown felt like stepping back in time, the tall ships and historic quay transporting us to an era of seafaring adventures and the Shackleton museum we wandered passed just added to this.
With supplies dwindling, we made a detour to Tesco, stocking up on provisions for our stay at the Youth Hostel Association at the Eden Project for the next few days. Between groceries and postcards, we managed to squeeze in a meal at the cafe, fueling up for the rest of the day. Then after a little more of the south west coast path it was time to head inland along the Cornish Way and the Clay Trails, following the path toward our next destination: the Eden Project.
Navigating to the YHA near the Eden Project proved trickier than expected. Limited guidance for those arriving on foot had us mistakenly following a busy road before realising there was a safer, quieter footpath we could have taken. But every journey has its missteps, and we eventually made our way to our temporary home—a classic Airstream camper.
The Airstream was a quirky, cozy refuge for the next couple of nights, its vintage style adding an unexpected charm to our stay.
Exploring the Eden Project – A World of Biodiversity and Inspiration
Tuesday was a day for exploration and discovery at the Eden Project, and I was grateful we’d carved out time for a day and a half here. With our tickets valid for the year, we felt no rush, diving deeply into the impressive biomes and immersing ourselves in their vibrant biodiversity. While Eden is a world-class eco-attraction, I found myself feeling a nostalgic fondness for the gardens at Kew—a place that holds its own charm and history.
Nestled in a reclaimed clay quarry, the Eden Project is not only a marvel of engineering but also an educational charity devoted to fostering awareness of our planet’s ecosystems and the critical importance of sustainability. The site hosts two massive biomes and an array of outdoor gardens, each showcasing unique aspects of the natural world.
Our journey began in the Rainforest Biome, the largest indoor rainforest in the world. Wandering through the lush, humid environment, we encountered over 1,000 plant species representing regions such as Central and South America, Southeast Asia, West Africa, and the tropical islands. This biome was a sensory experience, with rich, earthy smells, and vibrant greenery.
Highlights included:
• Rainforest Market: This market showcased tropical crops like cocoa, coffee, vanilla, and sugarcane, reminding us of the economic significance of these plants and the sustainable practices that can support their cultivation.
• Tropical Islands & Southeast Asia: We learned about the delicate balance of agriculture and biodiversity in these areas, with exhibits on sustainable resource management.
• Rainforest Canopy Walkway: An elevated path provided us with a breathtaking view of the canopy, underscoring the importance of each forest layer in maintaining ecological balance.
• Costa Rica Eco Lodge and Canopy Rope Bridge: This interactive experience gave us a glimpse into the beauty and complexity of rainforests, leaving us with a new appreciation for their role in global climate regulation.
Next, we entered the Mediterranean Biome, a complete contrast to the lush rainforests. Here, we wandered among plants adapted to dry, warm climates—an exploration of regions like the Mediterranean Basin, California, South Africa, and Western Australia. The exhibits wove together culture, agriculture, and sustainable practices suited to these environments.
After touring the biomes, we moved on to the Invisible Worlds exhibit, where we explored the unseen elements of life—water cycles, climate change, and biodiversity. The exhibit brought to life the intricate and invisible threads that bind all life on Earth, reinforcing our responsibility to protect and sustain them.
Finally, we wandered through Eden’s outdoor gardens, which blend native and global plant species. The gardens showcased sustainable landscaping techniques and the importance of biodiversity in supporting resilient ecosystems, a fitting end to an inspiring day.
Our evening was spent cooking with the supplies we’d picked up the day before, followed by a cozy night in front of the Airstream. We gathered around a small fire, reflecting on the day and feeling a renewed sense of connection to the world we’re part of. The Eden Project had not only been an adventure but a reminder of the beauty and fragility of our planet, a reminder I’d carry with me as we continued our journey.
From the Eden Project to Fowey – A Day of Reflection and Coastal Charm
Wednesday began with a return to the Eden Project, taking full advantage of our year-long ticket. Arriving early, we enjoyed the rare peace of the Rainforest Biome before the crowds arrived, allowing us to fully appreciate the lush surroundings. We sipped teas inspired by the plants in the biome, each sip connecting us a little more to the intricate ecosystems we’d explored. It was a fitting way to say goodbye to this eco-sanctuary.
A hearty jacket potato at the café in the Core fuelled us up before heading back to the trail. This time, we took a more direct route, following a footpath on the southwestern edge of the site and then meandering down a trail by a river. The path was serene, winding through shaded woods, with only the occasional birdsong breaking the silence.
As we passed Par Beach, we spotted children on an outdoor school trip, their laughter and excitement adding a cheerful energy to the day. They reminded me of the joy of discovery and how even small adventures can spark curiosity and wonder.
We continued along the coast, reaching the Gribbin Daymarker—a striking red-and-white-striped tower that has served as a navigation aid for centuries, helping boats safely traverse these waters. The coastline was dotted with hidden gems, like Polridmouth Cove, where a quaint cottage overlooked a peaceful lake, creating a scene that felt plucked from a storybook.
By late afternoon, we arrived in Fowey, a charming town where the scent of salt air mingled with the evening breeze. We indulged in a well-deserved dinner at a cozy curry house, savouring the spices and warmth of a comforting meal. As we settled into our Airbnb for the night, the quiet of the evening provided a welcome pause, a chance to reflect on the journey so far.
Fowey to Looe – Bays, Blooms, and Summer Heat
Thursday began with the familiar rhythm of yoga, stretching out any lingering stiffness from the previous days. Feeling refreshed, we made our way down to Fowey’s waterfront, where a boat awaited to carry us across the river. Once on the other side, we found ourselves at a scenic coastal watch point, tucked within a lovely park. From our perch, we could gaze out over the open sea while enjoying a simple breakfast—a perfect start to a day that would soon prove both demanding and beautiful.
Under the blazing midday sun, we continued along the trail, feeling a bit like “mad dogs” out in such intense heat. But then came a respite: Lansallos Beach. It was the perfect spot for a cooling swim, a quiet bay shielded by the cliffs and dotted with rock pools. We chatted with a few kayakers who were scouting the coast for potential wild camping spots, exchanging stories about favourite hidden beaches and coastal adventures.
The rest of the day felt like a series of “false summits” or “false headlands”—each turn teasing us with the possibility of a new vista, only to reveal yet another stretch of rugged path. It was a bit like a day designed to showcase all of Cornwall’s finest offerings in one go: the wildflowers were in full bloom, the hills seemed steeper, the cliffs more dramatic, and the bays more inviting.
Managed largely by the National Trust, this stretch of the coast felt preserved and pristine, with each turn bringing another idyllic scene. Yet we noted a scarcity of cafes along this particular route, which would have been welcome under the hot sun. Nonetheless, the landscape itself was more than enough, a living, breathing reminder of the beauty of Cornwall in its full summer glory.
Looe to Sheviock – Coastal Cafes and New Companions
Friday began with a gentle start, the path leading us only a short way before we found ourselves at Millendreath Beach. We settled in for breakfast at a cafe that quickly became our favourite of the entire trip. The beach, nestled in a quiet cove, was beautiful, and the food, fresh and comforting, felt like fuel for the soul.
After breakfast, the trail meandered through a shaded section along a country lane, providing a cool contrast to the previous day’s sun-drenched trek. We passed by a local monkey sanctuary.
At Seaton Beach, we met fellow hikers on the same route, and after a brief chat, we decided to walk together along Downderry Beach, avoiding the road. The conversation flowed easily, and we soon learned that our companions were retired National Geographic employees. One of them, a travel photographer, shared a memorable thought: “Being right doesn’t get you good photos.” It was a gentle reminder that in both photography and life, sometimes it’s about the journey and cooperation, not just the goal.
Continuing along, we reached Portwrinkle and eventually Tregantle Fort, an impressive structure perched along the coast. From there, we retraced our steps slightly and headed inland toward Sheviock, where a cozy bed and breakfast awaited us.
As evening settled in, we walked to the local pub and spotted familiar faces from earlier in the day—our new hiking friends.
Sheviock to Mount Edgcumbe – A Farewell to Cornwall
Saturday marked the final stretch of our Cornwall adventure, a day that was equal parts bittersweet and exhilarating. Leaving Sheviock, we set off along the coast, our spirits lifted by the knowledge that we were nearing the journey’s end but reluctant to say goodbye to this rugged, beautiful path.
Our first stop was the Cliff Top Café, nestled among holiday cottages that dotted the beachside slopes like colourful beach huts. This small, charming cafe offered a warm welcome, with limited seating and a sense of community that made it feel more like someone’s front porch than a public space.
The path continued around Rame Head, where we paused to admire the solitary chapel perched on the cliffs, a timeless beacon overlooking the sea. From here, we made our way to Cawsand Beach, a small but lively bay where Irina took a quick swim while I guarded our bags, chatting with our American friends who were awaiting a ferry to Portsmouth. The beach buzzed with the energy of day-trippers and hikers, all drawn to the water and the gentle rhythm of the waves.
Pushing onward, we arrived at Mount Edgcumbe Country Estate. This vast estate was a beautiful blend of wild and tamed, with rhododendrons and follies slowly being reclaimed by nature. The shade of the ancient trees provided a welcome respite from the midday sun, and we wandered through the grounds, marvelling at the remnants of forgotten gardens and the occasional glimpse of a long-abandoned fort.
The coastline here is dotted with relics of Cornwall’s military past—19th-century forts that stand as silent witnesses to history. Some forts are still active, part of a firing range, while others have been converted into apartments, their stone walls now framing modern lives.
At last, it was time to cross the water, a short ferry ride that symbolised the transition from Cornwall to Devon. We joined other through-hikers on the journey to Plymouth, exchanging stories and laughs as we reached the end of this section of the South West Coast Path. The Plymouth Marina awaited us, a bustling, modern contrast to the wild cliffs and quiet coves we’d left behind.
That evening, back at our hotel, we celebrated with a final swim, although this time inside, and a hearty meal, reflecting on the week of coastal trails, vibrant flowers, hidden coves, and the camaraderie that had made this journey unforgettable. As the sun set over Plymouth, we tucked in for an early night, ready to rest and carry forward the memories of Cornwall’s enchanting coastline.
A Quiet Morning in Plymouth – Reflections and Farewells
Sunday dawned quietly in Plymouth, the city streets bathed in early sunlight and nearly empty. There’s something magical about cities in the morning—before the rush, before the noise, when the calm lets you see them in a gentler light. I took a final stroll along the waterfront, savouring the quiet and the fresh morning air, reflecting on the journey that had brought me here.
Later in the morning, we had the chance to reconnect with old friends, sharing stories from the trail and catching up on the twists and turns of life.
As the afternoon rolled in, we boarded the train home, feeling a mixture of fulfilment and nostalgia. Cornwall’s coastline had offered a journey of challenge and beauty, from flower-strewn cliffs to sunlit bays and hidden coves. Each day on the path had brought something new—a landscape, a conversation, a quiet moment—that would stay with me long after the journey had ended. The train hummed as it carried me away, but in my mind, the echoes of the coast remained, a memory as constant and enduring as the waves.
