Friday: Arrival and Tranquility at Ilam Hall Driving through the rolling countryside of Derbyshire, my son and I arrived at Ilam Park as the winter sun was just saying goodbye for the day. After a short stroll through the parkland, taking in the views of the River Manifold and the limestone formations that define the region, we checked into the YHA hostel within the historic Ilam Hall. Cooking dinner in the self-catering kitchen, which is located down in the cellars, was an atmospheric experience. This was followed by a quiet evening reading in the lounge, where the only sounds were the occasional murmur of fellow guests. The peace and solitude set the tone for a weekend of outdoor exploration, although the hostel was much noisier the following evening.
Saturday: The Ilam Park to Wetton Circular Walk We had set our sights on the Ilam Park to Wetton circular walk, a 10-mile loop showcasing the best of the Peak District’s rugged beauty. Armed with route descriptions and a 1:50k map, we quickly realised that without the detailed descriptions, a more precise 1:25k map would have been necessary to navigate effectively. We set off from the stableyard, passing through the parkland and over the River Manifold via a metal bridge, before traversing a series of fields to join the Manifold Trail near Beeston Tor Farm.
Along the way, we encountered Throwley Old Hall, an imposing medieval ruin with a fascinating history. The hall, one of the most architecturally important ruins in the Peak District National Park, stands amidst what was once an extensive medieval landscape, including ridge and furrow cultivation strips, a deer park, and various field enclosures. These remnants of past land use stretch down the Lower Manifold Valley as far as Ilam Hall, telling a story of centuries of human habitation, farming, and hunting.
The medieval village of Throwley, once located northwest of the Hall, had at least nine households before being abandoned by 1508. Today, only faint earthworks hint at the homes and gardens that once stood there. The Old Hall itself was built in the early 16th century, likely replacing an earlier medieval manor for which no evidence survives. The Meverell family owned Throwley from 1208 until Robert Meverell’s death in 1626, after which his daughter’s marriage into the Baron Cromwell line led to the property being rented out and gradually falling into neglect.
By 1882, much of the Hall had collapsed, and by 1921, it had taken on the roofless, timeworn state we see today. Despite this, the remaining east wing still displays intriguing architectural details, fireplaces, mullioned windows, and structural modifications reflecting changing uses over time. The terraced gardens, once designed to maximise the sloping site’s views over the valley, still offer a spectacular vantage point for visitors. Interestingly, the Hall’s decline saw its stones repurposed for nearby farmhouses and outbuildings, embedding its legacy in the surrounding landscape. Now under the guardianship of the Peak District National Park Authority and Staffordshire County Council, the ruins have been preserved through conservation efforts, ensuring that their history continues to be told.
The climb up to Wetton rewarded us with panoramic views, and we took a brief detour into Thor’s Cave, a natural limestone cavern perched high above the valley. The cave’s gaping entrance is visible from miles away, and as we ventured inside, we found ourselves dwarfed by its sheer scale. The cavern, formed by water erosion over thousands of years, has been home to humans and animals for millennia, archaeological finds include tools, pottery, and even remains of Ice Age creatures. It was incredible to stand within a space that once sheltered prehistoric people and, possibly, even bears. After ascending into Wetton village, we paused for refreshments before pressing on, jogging the final stretch to meet my parents for hot drinks and a stroll through Ilam Church, where we discovered the Ilam Story, a stunning 18-meter folk painting depicting the history of the village. The painting, created using an ancient egg tempera technique, vividly illustrates key events, local traditions, and the people who shaped Ilam’s past. Each panel is rich in detail, featuring landscapes, transport methods, and seasonal flora and fauna. This unexpected discovery was a highlight, bringing the history of the area to life in a visually captivating way.
Despite reports of mud, we found conditions surprisingly manageable. Apart from the inevitable muddy patches near farm gates, the trail was firm underfoot, certainly less boggy than what we’re accustomed to in our own corner of the world!
Sunday: Watching the Dovedale Big Daddy Fell Race Our plan for Sunday was a brisk hike up Bunster Hill, dropping down into Dovedale before looping back. However, as we headed off, we quickly realised there was a fell race in progress. I spotted a few familiar faces from my fell running club and from my local climbing wall. We had stumbled upon the Dovedale Big Daddy Fell Race in full swing. Runners, many wearing the recognisable vests of Dark Peak Fell Runners, powered up the relentless climbs and plunged down steep descents with an energy that was inspiring to watch. The 20.4 km race, with a punishing 1,370 meters of ascent, looked like a true test of endurance, one that many competitors seemed to relish, despite the ‘Type 2 fun’ expressions on their faces!
From the summit we were able to tracked the runners in the distance and then later on through the valley, witnessing their final push close to the stepping stones and down the final descent. The atmosphere was electric, and we left with a reminder and appreciation for the toughness of fell racing. The rugged terrain, combined with beautiful winter conditions, made for a thrilling spectacle. It was clear that this was a challenge not just of physical endurance but also of mental grit, with runners making strategic choices on steep descents and route selection which was evidence from them picking slightly different lines in places.
Before departing, we made a final stop at the National Trust visitor booth to collect a stamp for my National Trust Passport, where we were intrigued to hear about the site’s use of Starlink broadband, fascinating, though not always reliable, according to the staff. It was an interesting glimpse into how modern technology is being integrated into remote heritage sites to improve visitor experiences, mainly in this case letting people who were not members or have coins to pay!
Reflections on an Amazing Weekend Our weekend in Ilam was everything we had hoped for, adventurous, immersive, and filled with moments of discovery. After weeks of stormy weather, it was a relief not to need our waterproofs. The crisp winter air and clear skies made for perfect hiking conditions, although a little cold in the wind. Wandering through ancient ruins, scrambling into caves, or watching determined fell runners conquer the peaks, every moment was a reminder of why the Peak District remains one of the most captivating places to explore in England. If you’re looking for a mix of history, hiking, and inspiration, Ilam Park was the perfect base for an unforgettable weekend in the White Peak.