So with the long weekend for the Queen’s jubilee approaching it was time to plan a memorable trip like I did for William and Kate’s wedding when I visited the Shetlands making the most of the extra bank holidays.
Maps were perused and plans started to form for a fast packing trip. Where should we go, how were we going to get there, where to stay and are there place to eat on the way?
https://www.harveymaps.co.uk/acatalog/South-West-Coast-map-set-YHWRSWK.html
With living about as far away from the sea as possible in the UK and with the South West being a corner of the country that I had not had chance to visit, going to Cornwall soon popped up at the top of the list; with the plan to do some of the South West Coast Path. We were keen to leave the car at home and go by train. With our ’two travel together railcard’ the simplicity of not needing to figure out where to leave the car and saving all the effort of driving this felt like a good option. Turns out it was a lot easier than travelling to Glenbrittle by public transport (see post).
Next was the decision around where to stay. We had left it a little late to book places inside and did not want to have the downside of the visibility and intrusion of a tent so looked like packing the bivvy for 3 nights under the stars was going to be the best option. With this began an obsession with the weather forecast and in particular if the weather was too damp we would cancel our trip and if only a bit damp then maybe take a little tarp. For the tarp decided on the backpacking light.Co.uk micro tarp and it did not disappoint, although more on that later.
2nd of June.
We broke our journey down into two chunks with a short journey down to bristol to increase the amount of time we had for sightseeing and self propelled travel on the Thursday, we also hoped this would reduce how busy the train was by allowing us to get a train that arrived in Penzance nice and early.
We arrived in Bristol the night before after a dash to the train station and managing to get the 6pm train and stocking up at Sainsburys near the Ibis at the railway station. Then a free drink before heading to bed.
The next day we sprung into life and after getting packed wandered down to the railway station to get the 5.40 train to Penzance. Upon arrival, a wander around the town to see the park and Jubilee Pool, picking up a postcard for my kids and posting it before heading along the coastal path to have a look around Mount St Michael. Starting with the pilgrims stairs to look around the castle. Which felt more like a home than monastery. For me it was the gardens that were amazing, such bright colours and a wide variety of flowers on a steep rockery style garden, with the sea below and the clear skys and sun above.
After a good few hours at the house and gardens it was time to get some more of the coastal path done. Getting to Perran Sands and after looking at the cafes which had stopped serving food we decided on booking and waiting for a table at the pub which had one space left and food we could eat, expecting that if we went any further we would struggle to get a table later due to being a busy bank holiday weekend.
Next we headed on to the next settlement and the plan was to Bivvy after Praa-Sands. As we headed out of the settlement we were on the look out for a spot, it was starting to get late so we were delighted when we came across a small spot that was clear of undergrowth and was big enough and watched the fire on the horizon from the jubilee fires, possibly over at Mousehole.
3rd of June
The morning came and after a bit of a lie in we were packing up as the first dog walkers came past. What a day it was going to be, like the pervious day the sun was shining and it was going to be hot.
Next we wandered through some of Cornwall’s ex-mining heritage including one of the sets for Poldark, before arriving in Porthleven for a lovely cooked breakfast at the Twisted Currant to set us up for the day. Then it was time for a visit to the shop, apply more sun cream and then on to Low Bar and the lovely views across the lake. The views along the coast and the cliffs and coves were stunning and with the wall to wall sunshine and historical sights, including the site of the first transatlantic radio signal at the Marconi centre, what was not to enjoy.
Later on that second day, we had drinks and dinner at the lovely Mullion Cove Hotel before cleaning teeth and heading on.
The plan was to find a west facing Bivvy site to enjoy he sunset and set up in a way to give us a little shelter from the expected north east winds and rain that we were expecting in the night. Our little tarp worked a treat and I was glad it was well pegged down as it took the brunt of the storm.
4th June
After our expected wild night of wind and rain on Kynance cliff, we managed to pack up just as the weather was improving to light rain. The micro tarp had done a great job of giving us a little bit of protection for the heads of our bivvy bags and a little dry space to pack up.
On making it down to a deserted Kynance Cove we had a quick look at the cafe before getting round the very narrow strip on the beach there to pick up the coast path and on to Lizard Point for breakfast with lovely views of seals in the water just off the shore. Then another good cooked veggie breakfast at the most southerly cafe on the mainland.
The rain may have eased off although the strong winds from the east has not and until the evening we pushed on into a strong headwind.
As we headed round there were lovely views along what felt like very varied coastline and more history from Marconi and his wireless station. Then Bass Point outlook, the lifeboat station, devils frying pan, beautiful little coastal settlements and Black Head information hut to keep us entertained as we made our way up to Coverack.
We were hoping to eat here and after some initial disappointment with the options we had fried halloumi, chilli sauce and chips with a quiche for Irina. Which we had while watching some live music by the harbour in very strong winds.
This is where things did not go quite according to plan! In general the going was much easier and flatter than the last section and we quickly pasted the disused Dean Quarry, now owned by the National Trust, and through Porthoustock where having been warned a little earlier that there were diversions by a couple of other south west coast path walkers, we found the sign for the bridge that was out of action. The diversion covered the area of coast we had hoped to bivvy and would mean a long out and back which would not have been possible with the days we had left.
So we decided to just push on and see what we would find. Unfortunately, we had to keep pushing on as we struggled to find a bivvy spot away from houses. Then after Gillan we found the signs had diverted the path from what I am sure is a lovely woodland although in the dusk it was just the first of the dark and muddy woodlands. We did spot a grassy platform in the river which could have been a possibility for a camp and in hindsight we should have stopped here. On getting to St Anthony we made use of the very nice public toilets and filled up on water. By this point it was dark and we headed up to Dennis Head to find it was just dense vegetation and then after deciding against climbing under the electric fence on the fields we headed through the next dark woodland. Passing a wild camper in the only vaguely decent place to sleep we could spot in the dark.
It looked like there might be some open space near the ferry to sleep and when we got there we decided it would have to do for a short nights sleep as everyone in the village was asleep and we could get up before the dog walkers in the morning.
5th June
The morning after a long day, we were still up early as bivvying at the ferry terminal. So after a dry night and packing our kit our first stop was the public toilets before going for a walk around the setttlement to look at one of the beaches. Then we headed back to catch the ferry across Helford River. Our next stop was the Glendurgan Gardens for some food and a quick explore of their lovely gardens which included yet more beautiful plants. Then after making it a little further around the coast we had a break for a snooze and after considering a couple of the bays we made it to Maen Port where I eat cheesy chips while Irina had a swim in the sea. Soon Falmouth was just a little ahead of us although with a lap of the coast there was still a bit more coast to see including the historic remains of the fortifications at Pendennis Point. Then a stop for supplies and a plod uphill from the ferry port to get to our Airbnb, for long showers, a quick dinner and bed.