It felt like the start of an adventure sat in the Eurostar lounge waiting to board the first train out of London to Paris and on to Munich with our bags packed with the plan for doing a section of the Salzburger Almenweg and some sightseeing on the way to and from Austria.
After zooming along under the channel we had a smooth change in Paris making an earlier connection and making the most of our flexible tickets we were soon in Munich after a relaxing journey. Then an evening in Munich sightseeing on foot and soaking up the atmosphere. Followed by a morning run around the lovely Englischer Garten before heading on to Radstadt by train. On arriving we had a dash to the supermarket to stock up with supplies before everything was closed due to a bank holiday. We were expecting that with my gluten-free vegetarian diet it might not always be easy to get food in the huts and Alms so we had some supplies in case.
Night in Radstadt
| We stayed in a range of accommodation on our trip including: 1. Pension, a guesthouse which we found to be a simple and comfortable place to stay in the valleys. 2. Privately run rooms, ‘zimmer’, booked via tourist information. 3. ‘Österreichischer Alpenverein’ Austrian Alpine Club huts. These ranged from large huts in the popular areas to quiet little place and all had a slightly different feel. We are members of the Austrian Alpine Club (UK), which gave us rescue insurance, discount on sleeping places, cheaper meals and cheaper hot water ‘Teewasser’, just remember your tea bags. As the late Cecil Davies wrote in Mountain Walking in Austria ‘Apart from the priorities and reductions at the huts … if you are an AV member in an AV hut, you “belong”. 4. Privately run huts, which we found to be nowhere near as friendly and well run as the club huts. |
After our first taste of staying in a Pension we had our first taste of up hill; with a lovely forested walk up to 1770m of Rossbrand. Then our first proper view of the Dachsteingebirge which was to become our constant companion over the next few days. Before heading up to stay in the mountain we had a night in the very touristy Filzmoos, staying at the bike focused Essl and with some help from google maps we found the lovely Pilzstub’n for dinner with view across the field and down the valley.
Night in Filzmoos
This was to be our first proper day in the mountains with 20km, 1500 metres of ascent, mountain scenery and sleeping in a hut. Similar to a number of the days on this trail the scenery did not disappoint and continued to keep us interested by how varied it was. So with the early morning climbing through woodland, lunch at Gastof Bachlalm. Then climbing through alpine meadows, known as Alms, before a lovely high level traverse to Hofpürgl Hütte for two nights.
| The trail we had chosen was called Salzburger Almenweg Salzburg – Salzburg is the fourth-largest city in Austria Er – Adjective of Salzburg Almen – Alpine pastures Weg – Way, path, route |
We found our welcome and their ability to cater for my gluten-free diet was easier at the smaller huts and food here at such a large hut was a struggle; particularly with aggressive behaviour blaming their minor error on us until looking sheepish when proven it was not, thanks to online booking receipt.
First night at Hofpürgl Hütte
| All the huts we visited on this trip had water that could be drunk from taps and often on the journey we came across water sources from pipes. We carried about 1 little of water each, stopped at Alms for sparkling water cordial and carried a Katadyn BeFree Filter 0.6L |
With two night at the Hofpürgl Hütte, for a bit of a rest day and as we wanted to do a bit of the Gosaukamm Circuit, which looks to be very popular; we decided to head up to Steigl Pass at 2016m.
The Cicerone guide says the following about it:
The crossing of the Stieglitz Pass involves some scrambling over ledges and up steps (fixed cables) with modest exposure to gain the Steigl Pass (2016m) with its wonderful views to the north and south, while the Bischofsmütze rises to the west and the Steiglkogel to the east
Cicerone walking in Austria guide
What else is there to say: we went up a lot, we saw the amazing views and we came down to the hut to do yoga in our dorm and relax before dinner. Unfortunately we learnt the hard way that with complex diets people can not be reminded enough, as when dinner came it was not what we had asked for, they blamed us although when we showed them what we had booked they looked a little sheepish and managed to knock us something up.
Second night at Hofpürgl Hütte
We knew this day was going to be long and hot. The route came with limited ascent although with 21km along mountain paths and over a little peak, with our big rucksacks, so we set off early as we did not want to underestimate the challenge. Again the scenery did not disappoint and the weather continued to be hot and sunny so it was not a hard decision to stop at Sulzkaralm for a drink even though we had only just got started. The second Alm of the day at Gerzkopt came with a warning of slow service so we decided to push on and focus on enjoying yet more amazing scenery. We were rewarded by a fabulous dinner in St Martins at K2 Cafe.
| Our approach to booking in to restaurants. – Look on google maps and try to book in advance – If this is not possible try to eat as early as possible – On arriving where we are staying for the night look to find somewhere to eat before checking in to the hotel, either booking a table for later or eating straight away. |
This approach worked well here and we got one of the last tables and then spent evening watching others try to get table to no avail as the restaurant was full and they did not want to overwork their staff.
Night in Sankt Martin
They say what goes up has to come down; well in the Austrian Alps, what goes down the previous day has to go up the next day. So off we set to regain the height we had lost the previous day. This was not our longest day although another day with lovely scenery and we made it to the hütte before the worst of the rain.
The steep climb up to the alpine pastures took us through woodland with cattle in more of the milk paradise, past private huts with views across to the mountains. There were sightings of marmots and some narrow parts to the path which gave it the feeling of being away from the crowds. In fact a large amount of our day it was just us and the scenery.
On arriving at the hut we settled in, had a shower and the best hut food for our ‘members meal’, a massive salad.
Over dinner we discovered we had been spotted the two previous nights on the route by a Hungarian couple who were on the last few stages of the complete whole 31 stages and from them we learnt about the badges you can get.
| For those out there that like a badge or souvenir then the hiking pin badge is the perfect motivation and a lasting souvenir all rolled into one for you. Get a copy of the Pasture Trail map from the Tourist Information Office and then as you complete sections of the trail get it stamped at an “Alm” of your choice. – If you complete five hiking sections there is a bronze badge – If you complete ten hiking section there is a silver badge – If you complete twenty hiking section there is a gold badge – If you complete all 31 sections then your reward takes the form of a diamond badge Further information, a brochure with detailed section descriptions and your own hiking map are available from all Salzburg Sportwelt tourist information points or online at: www.salzburger-almenweg.at |
We were going to meet up again a few times over the following days including on a section of a diversion where the path was hard to follow, more on that later.
Night in Dr. Heinrich Hackel Hütte
This section was mainly contouring around the side of high mountains and dropping down to the town which is the official start of the circuit. We had decided to start in a slightly different place on the circuit so we got to visit the Dachstein Mountains (in German Dachsteingebirge).
In similar to many mountain journeys there was plenty of up and down, even on this day that was mainly contouring. Towards the start of the day we dropped down into a beautiful valley to avoid some big cliffs around the sides of the mountains and then back up to a reward of another Alm. Although not a particularly friendly one, we had some nice company with our fellow hikers from Hungary.
As ever another varied day with a second stop for a drink while it rained some more, before ending up in a town. While we were sat eating and drinking the Hungarian couple waved as they walked past, we thought that would be the last we saw of them, although a little later after trying to decipher the route we met them coming the other way and we put our heads together to try and decide which way to go to get to the town. Komoot saved the day and we were soon on our way in the light rain to our accommodation.
| Along with the guidebook and a couple of maps we used Komoot to find our way. One of the users have made a Hiking Collection to cover the route and it is possible to download the stages. Worth checking out the stages in the hiking collection here: https://www.komoot.com/collection/1099266/the-most-beautiful-corners-of-salzburg-salzburger-almenweg-in-25-stages |
We had booked to stay in a farm house through the local tourist information and what a lovely place it was to stay. After dropping off our bags we headed straight out to find somewhere for dinner, reserving a table in the restaurant next door before dashing down to the supermarket to get supplies.
| We found the supermarkets were generally well stocked for snacks on the trail although worth keeping an eye on opening hours over the weekend and looking at when there are bank holidays. Compared to other trips we have done we ended up carrying quite a bit of gluten-free food as it was harder to get and without it breakfast and lunch would have been particularly hard. |
At dinner that night we were sat next to a group who had been running the Alm we stopped at for the first lunch break who had reluctantly served us.
Night in Pfarrwerfen
After 7 days of hiking we had a kind of resting / sightseeing day although we managed over twelve kilometres of walking and too many steps to count as we went to visit Hohenwerfen Castle. It is a 900 year old medieval castle built by the Archbishops of Salzburg and featuring in Where Eagles Dare and in the background scenes of The Sound of Music. The castle visit provided some insight into its history and yet more amazing views from the bell tower and chance to watch the falconry display.
Second night at Pfarrwerfen
After a break from carrying our big bags and a morning of yoga and breakfast it was time to head back up into the alpine pastures. This was a short day and probably our least favourite. As we arrived at the private Alm at Mittenfeldalm quite early and it was little unclear on how we could checkin or if we could leave our bags anywhere, just getting told ‘later’ when we asked and as food options were limited we were glad when we could check in, leave our bags and go for a short walk. In hindsight we should have just paid more to stay at the hotel a little further down the trail or walked straight through to Erichhutte as the next day was another short day.
Night in Mittenfeldalm
This was a very much more enjoyable day, we headed past the hotel a little down the track. Then through more alpine pastures with the mountains in atmospheric mist. The temperature was cooler and I wore a long sleeve thermal while walking for the first time.
We stopped at one of a group of four huts to discover that yogurt drinks with berries were cheaper than water and cordial in the milk paradise. So braving the bitter taste we sampled these local drinks; before heading through more alpine pastures.
From the map I had spotted there was a path up a small peak behind the next hut and as we walked the last section towards the hut the route looked very inviting.
The hut was an alpine club hut with friendly staff and we were informed that checkin was at 3pm and when we asked if we could leave our bags we were able to leave them in the corner of the guests’ dinning room. So putting some valuables and essentials into reusable shopping bag, we headed off. As it got steeper I made the way up on my own going past number of people coming down.
I was rewarded with some scrambling, including as section on a ladder and some metal rungs, before summiting out on the narrow summit after what turned out to be six hundred and sixty meters of ascent from the hut. Making it back in time to check in, sorting of kit and a short yoga session before dinner.
Night in Erichütte
We were both conscious this was going to be a long day without any Alms for lunch breaks. It turned out to be twenty one kilometres with nearly nine hundred metres of ascent. After a short decent on a quiet road and short section on a busy road we were on forest track heading up to Schneeberg at 1938m through lovely woodland. On arriving we were rewarded with the most amazing views of the surrounding mountains, with mountains stretching as far as the eye could see.
From here we worked our way along and down towards our accommodation for our last night in Austria in a lovely hamlet in a Pension surrounded by beautiful countryside.
Night in Böndlsee
All that remained was a hours walk down to Lend to catch our first of two trains to get to Munich, and when looking for supplies in town we realised it was all closed due to another public holiday.
Our end (for now) at Lend
We had booked our tickets on the app and picked them up at the ticket machine in Pfarrwerfen and had a straightforwards journey to Munich. It was a bit of a shock being back in a city again, although I made the most of it buying some clean clothes and eating. Then a lovely day visiting the Deutsches Museum and some time in the ‘Englischer Garten’ before heading on to visit the castle in Heidelberg before heading home via Paris and the Eurostar.